Understanding AFC/AGC
Description: You need to be
able to understand what is going on here, so if you have problems you
can be able to solve them.
When
you tune a station plus or minus off frequency, a set of events
happen:
When a station is tuned on frequency and when the
detector is tuned correctly, both of the diodes charge the 10uf
capacitor and the audio out behind the 1uf capacitor is
neutral.
When a station is
mistuned slightly above the target frequency, the diodes charge the
capacitor, but the audio out behind the 1uf capacitor becomes
positive.
When a station is
mistuned slightly below the target frequency, the diodes charge the
capacitor, but the audio out behind the 1uf capacitor becomes
negative.
When no station is
tuned, the 10uf capacitor is drained and the audio output behind the
1uf capacitor is neutral.
Note:
If this is backwards, most likely you have the output of the bottom
transformer (behind the two diodes)
switched around backwards.
Automatic Frequency Control / Automatic Gain Control
Description: AFC locks on
a frequency and automatically fine tunes it; AGC lowers the
signal level when a powerful signal is hit.
AFC Circuit:
Note:
Your AFC should grab from both sides (and not push) if not, there is
something wrong with your detector.
Note: If you
detector pushes instead of pulling, switch the two geranium diodes on
the IF transformer side.
Note: The AFC's BIAS is on the detectors “backside”, you can remove the “AFC zero adjust” Potentiometer, 47K resistor, 22uf capacitor and put the two 10K resistors to negative (That is, if you do not want afc).
Note: You
can
make this circuit work without the VHF variac diode by disconnecting
the 47K resistor off the oscillators BIAS from positive, and
connecting it to the 100uh and 1uf capacitor (remove
everything else); be careful to not let the voltage get so low
that it will kill the oscillator; or the AFC will modulate when a
powerful station is hit (put another resistor
to positive).
1. Build
the AFC circuit.
2. Set
the "AFC Zero adjust" so the LED is at medium brightness
(You might want to verify that your tuning
diode is adjusting the frequency while doing this).
3.
Realign the Local Oscillator.
Optional
AGC circuit:
(Note: The radio actually works better without it, this is just here to prove it can be done.)
Note: You
may not need this circuit (it works very well
without it), but I live by two FM radio station towers that
are literally down the street, and I don't need a radio to receive
them; just a audio amp.
It should be noted that only one of the stations slightly distorted the detector when tuned to it's frequency and the antenna was extended and it was annoying,
It should be
also
noted that this station interferes with some other radios much more
severely, most have the problem above with varying severity when in
the area; the problem went away after I made a soldered version of it
to double check my work.
1.
Build the circuit as shown above (without disconnecting the 22K
resistor on the mixer)
2. Adjust the AGC Level
Adjustment.
3. The light should go out when a strong
station is tuned (if not change the 22k
resistor plus or minus).
4. Connect the AGC to
the 22K on the mixer as shown above.
Note:
If you wanted to do this right you would connect the AGC stage to the
RF and AF amp, but this was hard to do on the prototype board; it was
done however on the soldered AM/FM combination.
Realign
everything for best performance.
Thermally Stabilized AFC / AGC
If you want to improve
the radio, you can build this thermally stabilized version:
This version has tighter AFC and requires no AFC BIAS adjustment, and is thermally stable; however it requires more transistors.
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